How to Assemble the ESC

Your ESC will need to utilize RailCore's Enclosure system to connect to the battery, this means you'll need to build the compatible printed circuit board.

Gather all PCB Components and remove from the bag

Locate the small, metal pins located on the XT Connectors.

Snap off these metal pins by squeezing with pliers and bending them (they will snap)

Now that the connectors no longer have pins, it's now time to solder them to the PCB.

Gather your smaller XT60 Connector and align it with the holes in the middle of the PCB, with the port facing the middle. (Shown in photo)

The most important part of this step is that the connector lay flush with the PCB. There shouldn't be any variation in space between the connector and the PCB.

Use caution and care when using or operating around a Soldering Iron, as it can easily burn or cause harm.

Solder the XT60 to the underside of the PCB to attach it permanently.

Solder points should have a round, bubble holding down the connectors. Any excess solder will prevent the PCB from sitting flush within the rail.

Now that you have your main ESC Port soldered onto the PCB, It's time to solder the battery connectors.

Align your plugs to be flush and parallel with the PCB. With the male connector on the shorter end and the female closest to your XT60 connector.

Solder the XT90 to the PCB, ensuring that the ports are stable and aligned properly.

Set your PCB aside as we continue to assemble your ESC.

Grab your ESC Enclosure (Top & Bottom), Metal Heatsink, and Thermal Tape.

A heatsink is a device or substance for absorbing excessive or unwanted heat. In this case, (no pun intended) we're using these metal plates to absorb the heat of. the ESC.

Assure the heatsink is clean and dry. Place a strip of thermal tape over the entirety of one side of the heatsink.

Continued in next step

Trim the excess thermal tape and place aside (you can use the excess later if you're careful)

No need to trim on the Heatsink's cut-out. A regular rectangle shape is perfect.

Peel off the thermal tape's backing and install the heatsink into the TOP of the ESC enclosure by pressing firmly on the heatsinks 4 corners.

Make sure you're installing the heatsink on the correct side of the case and it is centered, as to not have a gap between the sink and the casing.

Gather an ESC and your finished PCB. It's now time to connect them.

Align the ESC's XT60 Connector with the PCB's. You'll notice that it does not appear to have enough room to connect these two ports...

While pushing the connectors together, you can push down to bend the ESC cables to fit into the space between the XT90's.

Do not push too hard! This connection while taking some force, should not come close to breaking either the PCB, ESC or connectors.

Add thermal tape to cover the entire backside of the ESC. (Here's where you can use that excess material!)

Trim the borders for minimal excess.

Align the ESC with the Heatsink. Your cables should be sprouting from the enclosure side with NO CABLE PORTS. Your capacitors should not be near the openings of the enclosure.

Remove the thermal tape's backing and press down on the the corners to install in the same fashion you aligned it.

Once you install anything with thermal tape, it is difficult to adjust. Measure/align twice to ensure you only have to do it once.

Locate the remote's receiver, which is a small black wire with a black rectangle sticker at the end of it.

The ESC Enclosure should have the cables coming out on the side closest to you. The side with cut-outs should be facing away from you.

Peel the sticker backing off and install it on the right side of the enclosure casing. Do not let it hang off the edge or have any sharp creases.

Once installed, cover the receiver cable with a small piece of electrical tape to secure it down.

Grab two of the rubber cable gaskets.

Cut a line down the middle of the recessed part, making a slit for the cables to come through.

Be careful not to cut the entire thing! Only a slit is needed, not hollowing it out.

Set these aside for now, you'll need them soon.

Grab your ESC and 2 motor sensor cables.

Plug your motor sensor cables into the outer ports on the port-side of your ESC.

Now it's time to use Hot Glue. Grab your hot glue gun and heat it up.

Use caution and care when using or operating around a Hot Glue Gun, as it can easily burn you or leak Hot Glue onto other materials or yourself.

Hot Glue the sensor cable wires to it's port, this will ensure the cables do not have loose connections.

Add Hot Glue to the small green capacitor shown in the photo.

Hot Glue the receiver’s cable to the ESC/Main Capacitor to secure it down. You may need to hold it's position while the glue dries.

We add Hot Glue to these components to both hold them in place and protect them against potential damage or shifts caused by riding vibrations.

Gather your ESC Enclosure Base, and ESC, It's time to test fit your ESC's PCB into the enclosure's Rail.

The Xt90's being flush to the bottom of the enclosure is important, or else connecting batteries will become difficult.

Identify the appropriate tabs on the Enclosure Base with the holes on the PCB.

The Female XT90 plug should be away from the side with cable openings. (Refer to photos)

Push the XT90 onto the appropriate tabs to make the plugs flush to the bottom of the enclosure

Grab your switch, it's now time to plug-in and install it.

Plug the switch into the compatible port, between the two sensor cables.

Back the switches screw-back off to fit the thickness of the enclosure. (Shown in photo)

Add some hot glue to behind the screw to secure it in place.

Gather 2 motor cable adaptors, and the Rubber Cable Gaskets that were cut in step 9.

Connect the cable adaptors to the matching color bullet connector, be careful not to cross sides.

Bullet connectors are the single pin connectors on the colored-cable end. The yellow connectors are MR60 plugs.

Now it's time to route the cables through the rubber gaskets.

First, route the sensor cables through and push to the center-most side. Then route the MR60 through.

Make sure the cables are not tangled, crossed, or taking up excess space. Space within the enclosure is minimal and cable management is important.

Slide the Rubber Cable Gaskets up the cables to the cable cutouts on the ESC enclosure.

Tuck and pull the cables through to make space in the enclosure.

The Goal here is to ensure that now cables will be crushed, crimped, or broken by the enclosure closing.

Be sure not to have cables in any of the 4 corners. Screws will be going through these holes with no room to spare.

With your wire's properly tucked. and managed, it's time to connect both sides of the ESC's enclosure.

Lift the bottom case (side with PCB) by the corners and lower the case evenly on all corners.

Make sure the enclosure tab's are aligned and within the designated area. Keep an eye on maintaining the position of the rubber gaskets and switch.

Do not forcefully push down! There should be some resistance, but not enough to break anything or to cause difficulty.

Gather 4 of your enclosure screws, it's time to connect both sides!

You're going to add the screws in a two step process.

First, screw each corner in half-way, working in a diagonal pattern.

Then repeat the same pattern to tighten the screws fully.

Do not over-tighten any screws! Over tightening could lead to broken screws and inoperable ESC enclosures.

Flip your ESC over and grab your rubber stopper.

Work your rubber stopper into the round port opposite of the ESC's switch.

You've just assembled your board's ESC! Now it's time to test by plugging into a battery and connecting a remote!

Be sure to wear helmets and protective gear whenever riding or operating your vehicle in any capacity.