Pending Edits to BKB Duo Assembly (V2)
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Step #40 edited: [Step edited]
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| - | [title] |
|---|---|
| + | [title] Final Comments |
| [* 9] ALWAYS WEAR A HELMET! THEY SAVE LIVES. DONT WEAR IT FOR YOU, WEAR IT FOR YOUR FAMILY. | |
| [* 1] Electric skateboarding is a very fun and rewarding sport. But, everyone has fallen off their board at some point. It's not a matter of if it will happen, but when it will happen. Please wear at least a helmet and always ride within your comfort zone | |
| [* 1] Treat the board with respect! It is a vehicle after all. Do NOT drop the board from a vertical position to set it down as it put a lot of stress on the enclosure. Give the board a good once over before every ride to make sure bolts are tight and things look normal. | |
| [* 9] NEVER CHANGE THE FIRMWARE ON THE XENITH! IF YOU ARE HAVING AN ISSUE REACH OUT TO SUPPORT BEFORE CHANGING ANY SETTINGS ON THE XENITH! | |
| [* 5] Please consider leaving a review on our website and helping us spread the word on Facebook/Reddit/Instagram/etc. We do NOT do any paid marketing, we believe the product and our customers speak for themselves. Every little bit helps! |
Step #38 edited: [Step edited]
Edited by Bryant Eadon (13)
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| - | [title] Programming the remote |
|---|---|
| - | [* 1] |
| + | [title] Programming the remote for the BKB Duo 2 |
| + | [* 1] WARNING: Make sure the BKB board is turned off, with wheels facing up! Then turn the remote on by long pressing the power button (left) |
| [* 1] Enter the settings menu by long pressing the settings button (right) | |
| [* 1] Click enter (right button) to enter the board parameters menu | |
| [* 1] Press enter to enter the battery cells setting | |
| [* 1] Move the throttle up and down to change the value. If you have the small battery (10s3p) ensure the value is 10S. If you have the larger battery (TypeR) ensure the value is set to 12S. When the value is set press the exit button (left). | |
| [* 1] Use the throttle to navigate the other settings within the board parameter menu. Change the values to match your current setup | |
| [* 1] Pole Pairs = 7. Wheel Type = Pulleyed. Wheel Diamater = 97mm, 105mm, or 150mm depending on your wheel choice. Motor pulley = 15C for standard and 20C for the speed upgrade. Wheel pulley = 40C for 97 or 105mm wheels, 60C for 6in wheels. Unit = your choice. Xenith FW = DISABLE. Then click exit to return to the menu. | |
| [* 1] Navigate to the Remote Config menu and press enter. Go to the gear calibration and press enter. Apply full throttle, then full brake, then full throttle, and then full brake. Press and hold the save button. Then click exit to return to the menu |
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Step #37 edited: [Step edited]
Edited by Bryant Eadon (13)
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| [title] Finishing touches | |
| - | [* 1] The loctite technically needs 24 hours to fully cure. I would wait at least 1-2 hours before riding so the enclosure bolts do not fall out. Ensure they did not come loose after your first ride. |
| - | [* 1] While you are waiting for the loctite to cure, you can charge the battery and program the remote. |
| + | [* 1] The loctite needs 24 hours to fully cure. If you are anxious to try things out wait 2 hours before riding so that the enclosure bolts do not fall out. |
| + | [* 10] After your first ride, whenever that may be, ensure the enclosure bolts did not come loose. Tighten them and add loctite as necessary. |
| + | [* 1] While you wait for the loctite to cure, charge the battery and program the remote. |
| + | [* 10] The battery is partially charged when shipped. Take care to follow typical lithium ion battery care. Do not trickle charge, charge only to 80% each time for longest life, reduce charge to 40% and keep in a cool place if in storage to retain battery life. |
| + | [* 10] For the technical minded, the maintenance of Lithium batteries is explained in this PDF ( [link|https://static1.squarespace.com/static/55d039b5e4b061baebe46d36/t/56284a92e4b0629aedbb0874/1445481106401/Fact+sheet_Lead+acid+vs+lithium+ion.pdf|Consider mirroring this content in a better location ...] |
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Step #30 edited: [Step edited]
Edited by Bryant Eadon (13)
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| - | [title] Assembling the board |
|---|---|
| + | [title] Assembling the board - 10s3p battery installation |
| [* 9] This step is only for users with the smaller 10s3p battery. Type R users can skip. | |
| [* 1] The10s3p battery has a wide side and a shorter side. Peel the paper backing off of the gasket on the wide side. Leave the paper on the short side | |
| [* 1] Firmly press the battery into the enclosure as shown so charge port and battery wires are near the charge port side |
Step #27 edited: [Step edited]
Edited by Bryant Eadon (13)
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| - | [title] Assembling the board |
|---|---|
| + | [title] Assembling the board - installing the charge port |
| + | [* 1] Find the battery assembly, attached to the battery is the charge port, disconnect it using the yellow connector for this step. |
| [* 1] Remove the locknut from the charge port | |
| [* 1] Slide the charge port through the hole in the left side of the enclosure | |
| [* 1] Reinstall the locknut to secure the charge port |
Step #25 edited: [Step edited]
Edited by Bryant Eadon (13)
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| [title] Xenith installation | |
| [* 9] If your Xenith was already installed in the enclosure do ***NOT*** remove it. You can skip the following steps where it is installed | |
| [* 10] NOTE: If you purchased the Bluetooth module it will be pre-installed under the silicone case of the Xenith. So it will not be visible, but it is there. | |
| [* 1] Gather the Xenith, Xenith gasket, M4x10 button head bolts, and 2.5mm Allen wrench | |
| - | [* 1] Remove the paper backing off of the gasket, then slide it over the red heatsink |
| - | [* 1] Place the Xenith in the enclosure as shown |
| + | [* 1] Remove the paper backing off of the gasket, then slide it over the red heatsink pressing the glue firmly in place. Careful to avoid gaps, bubbles or a mis-aligned gasket. |
| + | [* 1] The glue for the gasket may make removing the paper difficult, if the gasket does not have glue on it, and the paper is difficult to remove then try a different spot on the paper backing using a razor blade, tweezer or needle-nose pliers. |
| + | [* 1] Place the Xenith in the enclosure as shown. If positioned properly, the battery wire will be going deeper into the enclosure. |
Step #24 edited: [Step edited]
Edited by Bryant Eadon (13)
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| - | [title] Assembling the board |
|---|---|
| - | [* 1] Add a wire clip to each motor and |
| - | [* 1] Secure all four bolts with a locknut |
| + | [title] Assembling the board - attaching wire clips |
| + | [* 1] Add a wire clip to each motor and orient them as shown. Attach the wire clips to the two inner bolts. |
| + | [* 1] Secure all four bolts with a locknut each |
Step #23 edited: [Step edited]
Edited by Bryant Eadon (13)
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| - | [title] Assembling the board |
|---|---|
| - | [* 1] Repeat |
| + | [title] Assembling the board - attaching the rear motor assembly |
| + | [* 1] Repeat the previous step for the rear truck metal attachments. Place bolts through the top rails and then through the deck as shown. |
| [* 1] Add a riser to the underside of the deck over the bolts | |
| - | [* 1] Add the drivetrain with the motors facing the rear to the bolts (do not add the locknuts yet) |
| + | [* 1] Add the drivetrain with the motors facing the rear to the bolts. (do not add the locknuts yet, we will attach wire hangers in a moment) |
Step #22 edited: [Step edited]
Edited by Bryant Eadon (13)
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| [title] Assembling the board | |
| - | [* 1] There are two different front rails, a left and a right. Take a left and right rail, place the truck bolts through them and then press the bolts through the front of the deck |
| - | [* 1] The front of the deck does NOT have the large foam pad. The foam pad is for the enclosure and this is the rear of the deck |
| + | [* 1] Open the small plastic package with hardware labeled "TRUCKS" |
| + | [* 1] There are two different top metal rails, a left and a right, look at the angled portions closely to map these to the board angles. |
| + | [* 1] Take a left and right rail, place the truck bolts through them and then press the bolts through the front of the deck |
| + | [* 9] When the deck is positioned grip-tape down, the pad is the rear of the board. The pad is designed to support and seal the battery and electronics enclosure. |
| [* 1] Add a riser to the underside of the deck over the bolts | |
| - | [* 1] Slide the front truck over the bolts and then secure it by installing a locknut on each bolt |
| + | [* 1] Slide the front truck over the bolts and then secure it by installing a locknut on each bolt. |
| + | [* 11] Hold the bolt in place with the wrench, and rotate the allen wrench for the fastest method of attaching these bolts. |
Step #21 edited: [Step edited]
Edited by Bryant Eadon (13)
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| - | [title] Assembling the board |
|---|---|
| + | [title] Assembling the board - bring pieces together |
| [* 1] Gather the drivetrain, front truck, top rails, risers, truck hardware, wrench, 3mm Allen wrench, and deck | |
| - | [* 10] The risers are not 100% required. We would highly recommend starting with them as the enclosure is quite deep, they will provide more ground clearance. If you are using the 105mm Cloud Wheels we would only recommend the risers if you are over 200lb. The risers are not needed for the 6in AT Wheels |
| + | [* 10] 97mm Wheels - The risers are not always required. We strongly recommend starting with them installed because the enclosure for the battery and ESC hangs low on the board and may scrape certain objects as you ride. The risers will provide additional ground clearance to prevent this from happening. |
| + | [* 10] 105mm Cloud Wheels - We only recommend these risers if the board will be carrying more than 200lbs, the flex to the deck and additional ground clearance will offer the best experience. |
| + | [* 10] 6in AT Wheels - These risers are not necessary unless more ground clearance is required for rough terrain. |
Step #20 edited: [Step edited]
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| - | [title] Assembling the drivetrain |
|---|---|
| + | [title] Assembling the drivetrain - belt tightening part 2/2 |
| [* 1] Repeat steps 18-20 to complete assembly of the other side of the drivetrain. Ensure proper belt tension |
Step #19 edited: [Step edited]
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| - | [title] Assembling the drivetrain |
|---|---|
| + | [title] Assembling the drivetrain - belt tightening part 1/2 |
| [* 1] Now it is time to tension the belt. Pull back on the motor until the there is decent tension in the belt | |
| - | [* 1] While holding tension in the belt |
| - | [* 5] |
| + | [* 1] While holding tension in the belt with one hand, tighten a bolt to hold the motor in place for the next test. |
| + | [* 5] Test the tension by pressing down in the area located by the green arrow. The belt should move up and down 2-3mm with your press. |
| [* 1] If it is too stiff and does not move, there is too much tension in the belt. Loosen the bolt and try again | |
| [* 1] If the belt depresses more than 4mm, there is not enough tension. Loosen the bolt and apply more tension. | |
| - | [* 1] When the proper tension has been achieved, tighten all four bolts to lock the motor in position |
| + | [* 1] When the proper tension has been achieved, tighten all four bolts to lock the motor in position. |
| + | [* 10] If there is a problem in the future with the motor not gripping the belt tightly, consider re-tightening these motor-mount bolts. |
Step edited: [Step edited]
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| - | [title] Assembling the drivetrain |
|---|---|
| - | [* 6] Add a drop of Loctite to each bolt |
| + | [title] Assembling the drivetrain - attach assembly crossbar |
| + | [* 1] Remove the two bolts from the cross bar using the allen wrench |
| + | [* 6] Add a drop of Loctite to each bolt, the lower 1/4 of the bolt should be covered in the blue goo. |
| [* 1] Install the hex bar onto the motor mounts. There is a lip the bar sits in on the inside of the motor mount | |
| - | [* 9] If you are using the 6in AT tires you will |
| + | [* 9] If you are using the 6in AT tires you will need to remove this later on in the tutorial to use the plastic spacer to align the motor mounts. Please see steps 18-20 of the V1 tutorial for photos and further instructions |
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Step #14 edited: [Step edited]
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| - | [title] Assembling the drivetrain |
|---|---|
| + | [title] Assembling the drivetrain - attach motor pulley part 2/2 |
| [* 1] Repeat this process to install the motor pulley on the other motor |
Step #13 edited: [Step edited]
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| - | [title] Assembling the drivetrain |
|---|---|
| - | [* 6] Add two drops of Loctite to each motor shaft |
| + | [title] Assembling the drivetrain - attach motor pulley part 1/2 |
| + | [* 6] Add two drops of Loctite to each motor shaft on the flat section. |
| [* 1] Place the motor pulley onto the motor shaft | |
| - | [* 1] It is a tight fit and need to be aligned properly. If the motor pulley only goes part of the way on, use the Allen wrench to loosen the set screw |
| - | [* 1] Ensure the motor pulley is pushed all the way on the motor shaft and then tighten the set screw |
| + | [* 9] It is designed to be a tight fit and must be aligned. If the motor shaft does not go completely through the motor pulley, use the Allen wrench to loosen the set screw in the motor pulley and try again. |
| + | [* 1] Ensure the motor pulley is pushed all the way on the motor shaft. |
| + | [* 1] Tighten the set screw on the motor pulley. |
Step #12 edited: [Step edited]
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| - | [title] Assembling the drivetrain |
|---|---|
| + | [title] Assembling the drivetrain - Motor pully Prep |
| [* 1] Gather the motor pulleys, 2mm Allen wrench, and Loctite | |
| [* 1] Remove the set screw from the motor pulley | |
| [* 6] Add Loctite to the set screw | |
| - | [* 1] Reinstall the set screw into the pulley. If you turn the set screw in too much to the point it is visible in the center of the shaft hole, it will not slide onto the motor |
| + | [* 1] Reinstall the set screw into the pulley so that it holds on its own. |
| + | [* 10] If you turn the set screw in too much to the point it is visible in the center of the shaft hole, it will not slide onto the motor |
| [* 1] Repeat this process for the other motor pulley |
Step #11 edited: [Step edited]
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| - | [title] Assembling the drivetrain |
|---|---|
| + | [title] Assembling the drivetrain - Motor to mount part 2/2 |
| [* 1] Repeat this process to attach the other motor to the motor mount | |
| [* 9] Ensure you use Loctite on each bolt | |
| + | [* 9] Look closely at the wire positioning. In this picture they are both "up". If yours do not look like the picture, then the motors are mounted incorrectly. |
Step #10 edited: [Step edited]
Edited by Bryant Eadon (13)
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| [title] Assembling the drivetrain | |
| [* 1] Place the motor mount on top of the motor with the wires oriented as shown | |
| [* 10] Add a drop of loctite to each motor screw before installing | |
| + | [* 10] Notice that there is a cut-out on one side of the metal hanger for each motor, the other side is flat. The flat side will face the wheel, and the motors, with be on the "inside" together. Examine the final picture if this is confusing. |
| [* 6] Anytime there is a blue circle in a photo it represents where a drop of loctite needs to be added | |
| - | [* 1] Install 4 motor screws to attach the motor to the motor mount. |
| + | [* 1] Install 4 motor screws to attach the motor to the motor mount. For now, only tighten these motor mounts until the screws hold the motor in place. We will tighten these later when the belt is attached. |
Step #8 edited: [Step edited]
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| [title] Assembling the front truck | |
| - | [* 9] It is very important not to over tighten the locknuts. It will create much more rolling resistance |
| - | [* 1] Tighten the lock nuts until they touch the bearing. Then loosen the lock nuts ~ half a turn. You should be able to very lightly move the wheel laterally on the axle. If there is no movement it is too tight, and if the wheel can slide the lock nuts are too loose |
| + | [* 1] Tighten the lock nuts using the T-tool until they just touch the bearing. Then loosen the lock nuts a quarter turn of the tool. You should be able to move the wheel laterally on the axle by about 1mm. |
| + | [* 10] If there is no movement laterally with the wheel on the axle, then the lock nut is too tight causing more friction than necessary. |
| + | [* 10] If the wheel can move by 2mm or more the lock nuts are too loose. Loose wheels will cause wobble, uneven wear and lost speed. |
| + | [* 9] DO NOT over tighten the locknuts. It will create much more rolling resistance causing lower distance and power for the board, as well as increased time to get to the proper speed. |
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New (position 1)
Step #6 edited: [Step edited]
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| [title] Assembling the trucks | |
| [* 1] Place the bushing and washer back on and tighten the locknut | |
| - | [* 10] If your having trouble getting the locknut to start threading, make sure the hanger is pushed all the way into the base of the baseplate (where the hanger comes to a rounded point). You can also apply pressure down on the truck to compress the bushings |
| + | [* 10] If your having trouble getting the locknut to start threading, make sure the hanger is pushed all the way into the base of the baseplate (where the hanger comes to a rounded point). You can also apply pressure down on the truck to compress the bushings ( the squishy red plastic bits) to give yourself more exposed threads to attach the locknut. |
| [* 1] Repeat this process to complete two trucks |
Step #3 edited: [Step edited]
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| - | [title] |
|---|---|
| - | [* 1] Repeat |
| + | [title] Assemble all 4 wheels |
| + | [* 1] Repeat the bearing insertion process in the previous step to complete all four wheels |
Step #2 edited: [Step edited]
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| - | [title] Assembling |
|---|---|
| + | [title] Assembling a wheel |
| [* 1] Push a wheel onto the bearing and truck to install it | |
| [* 1] Place one bearing onto the truck with the black covered side towards the center. Then add a silver spacer onto the truck | |
| [* 1] Push the wheel onto the bearing and truck to install it |